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HASH HOUSE A GO GO

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The Linq

3535 Las Vegas Blvd. S.

Las Vegas, NV 89109

702-731-3311

website

$15-$30

Daily 24 hours

American

A

AT A GLANCE

What is it?

Fresh farm food with a wild twist.

Where is it?

At The Linq (formerly Imperial Palace) on the Center Strip.

What kind of food is served?

Breakfasts of all stripes are the big draw here but they also have a full lunch and dinner menu of salads, burgers, sandwiches, and more.

What is the atmosphere like?

Fun and funky without being overly twee.

How is the service?

Excellent all the way around.

What are the prices like?

Not cheap but portions are huge and can be shared.

What else do I need to know?

In addition to this one there are outlets of Hash House at The Rio just off The Strip, The Plaza in Downtown Vegas, in Henderson at 555 N. Stephanie, and at 6800 W. Sahara Ave.

What's the bottom line?

Forget the breakfast buffet and come here instead.

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FULL REVIEW

Put down the runny scrambled eggs and step away from the breakfast buffet.

True, some Las Vegas buffets are quite good but none can hold a candle to the "twisted farm food" served at Hash House a Go Go, a funky/chic restaurant that got even better recently. How? They opened up a branch inside The Linq (formerly Imperial Palace), another at The Rio, and yet another at The Plaza in Downtown Vegas, so now you don't have to drive miles away to get there. Why would you have done that in the first place? Can you get a brown sugar banana pancake the size of a large pizza at a buffet? I think not.

The brainchild of escapees from Indiana, Hash House takes classic American farm fresh food and puts a wild, almost delightfully bizarre at times, spin on things. Their signature breakfast hashes come in the standard corned beef variety but you can also get it with more esoteric items like roasted chicken and garlic with asparagus and rosemary; salmon with cream cheese and scallions; chorizo with jalapenos; or even meatloaf with spinach and mozzarella. "Farm Scrambles" are like those Denny's skillets only jacked up a couple thousand notches with options such as bacon, avocado, and Swiss cheese; ham, spinach, and cheddar; or smoke salmon and brie.

Even their flapjacks and waffles are something "more" with options for the former including blueberry pecan, snickers, apple cinnamon, and mango coconut among others and vanilla, granola, and bacon for the latter. That's right, a bacon waffle - it comes with strips of bacon baked right into the thing! For those that know me and my obsession with bacon, that's a stroke of genius that just can't be ignored.

The above is just a small sampling of breakfast items, which also include everything from fried chicken with maple reduction sauce, eggs, bacon mashed potatoes, and a biscuit to a pork tenderloin roughly the size of the table topped with scrambled eggs with stops at things like sausage gravy pot pie, fried "mush," quesadillas, cold cereals, and more along the way.

They've even got something called "O'Hare of the Dog," a 24-ounce Budweiser served in a paper bag with a side of bacon. How can you not love that?

But breakfast is just the beginning. A full lunch menu includes salads of just about every variety (Caesar, spinach, salmon, Cobb, and fried chicken); sandwiches like grilled rosemary chicken with brie; roast beef Sloppy Joe; and a BBBLT (because they, like I, believe that "bacon rules"): stuffed burgers featuring two big patties with things like mushroom and Swiss, bacon and mashed potatoes, or crumbled blue cheese in between; and much more.

Dinner adds more salads like the RibsLT (pork ribs on a Caesar salad); sandwiches like the "griddled" cheese with cheddar, tomato, and prosciutto; pastas like a bed of linguine topped with meatloaf; and entrees from braised slow-cooked pork ribs to chicken pot pie to grilled halibut to chili crusted duck breasts and beyond.

We were warned that portions are large and designed to be shared, but my dining companions are of hearty Iowa stock and we laughed off their "big portions" and said "bring it on."

Did I mention that the pancake is the size of a large pizza? And did I mention that I'm not exaggerating AT ALL?

I sampled the brown sugar banana version of said flapjack (a robust flavored, eye-popping delight) as part of the Tractor Driver Combo, which includes two eggs with bacon, sausage, or potatoes. I also had to try the bacon waffle and was not at all disappointed with the moist vanilla waffle mixing perfectly with the sweet maple syrup and tangy apple smoked bacon. We also tried the corned beef hash (served with red onions and Swiss cheese) and although it wasn't exactly to my liking I'm not a corned beef fan anyway so I'm not worried about it.

Those three items came on platters that took up just about every last square inch of the table and was too much food for four people let alone three. It was all so delicious that I ate beyond the point of rationality.

Prices are high at first blush until you remember that these meals are meant for sharing. Full breakfasts run from $9-14 with smaller items and sides from $2-9. There is a $2.50 sharing charge but that is waved if you order a side of something so I recommend the Tractor Driver Combo with one of the signature giant flapjacks for $11 and a side of sausage or bacon for $3 and you've done breakfast for two people for $7.

Lunch items range from $6 to $14 (most items under $10) and dinner is going to set you back anywhere from $7 (for things like salads) up to $24 for the dinner entrees (although most dinner items are $10-20).

Considering the fact that the Wynn Las Vegas buffet, for instance, is charging more than that for their trays of good but impersonal food, Hash House is a bargain.

Service was excellent from start to finish and both dining rooms are a visual delight, done as a 21st century dairy barns gone mad.

Getting to Hash House a Go Go is a lot easier now with branches open at The Linq, The Rio, and The Plaza. But if you find yourself out wandering the city, don't forget about the original at 6800 W. Sahara Avenue or the newest one at 555 N. Stephanie in Henderson. Note that the location at The Quad is the only one open 24 hours. The location that used to be at M Resort closed in December of 2013.

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