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TABLE 10

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Palazzo

3325 Las Vegas Blvd. S.

Las Vegas, NV 89109

702-607-6363

website

$40-$80

Sun-Thu 11am-10pm

Fri-Sat 11am-11pm

American

A

AT A GLANCE

What is it?

The least "Emeril" of all of Emeril's Las Vegas restaurants, and I mean that in a good way. It's a fantastic, casually upscale eatery with a wide ranging menu of moderately priced, really good food.

Where is it?

At Palazzo Las Vegas on the Center Strip.

What kind of food is served?

Some of Emeril's favorites like the traditional gumbo, but lots of gastropub and upscale comfort food.

What is the atmosphere like?

Casual and modern that can double as a place for an easy lunch or a fine dinner.

How is the service?

Very attentitive and fast.

What are the prices like?

Not bad - most entrees are under $40.

What else do I need to know?

Candied bacon with maple syrup. Do I really need to say anything else?

What's the bottom line?

My favorite of the Emeril restaurants in Las Vegas.

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FULL REVIEW

I first visited Table 10 at Palazzo several years ago not long after it opened and loved it. It had a casual atmosphere, a fun menu of terrific upscale comfort food, and moderate prices, all of which made it a winner in my book.

But then the chef de cuisine was replaced, a lot of the fun dishes got taken off the menu, and the prices didn't seem quite so moderate anymore. Disappointed, I wound up removing the restaurant entirely from this site.

I went back recently and am happy to announce that everything that made the restaurant so great at the beginning is back and better than ever, make this one of the most enjoyable places to eat on The Strip.

Although it is an Emeril Lagasse restaurant and his fingerprints are visible on the menu, this is probably the least traditionally Emeril restaurant in his portfolio. The in-house chefs have included a variety of elements and styles, from Lagasse's classic Creole dishes like chicken and Andouille sausage gumbo to gastropub style snacks such as candied bacon with maple syrup to farm-fresh and organic choices like the Iowa raised roasted suckling pig porchetta to seafood, pasta, steaks, and more. There may not be an identifiable theme, per se, but the wide ranging selections still come together in a cohesive whole.

Bacon lovers can't pass up the aforementioned candied version, which are smoky, salty, and sweet in equal measure, with a decadently thick maple syrup in which to dip the strips. I could've stopped there and been in heaven but we also sampled the chicken wings, spicy hot but tempered with a cool cucumber buttermilk dipping sauce and the fried Great Lakes smelt, crunch little appetizer sized fish bites served with a lemon mayo, both of which were terrific but not as terrific as the bacon. What could be?

Other gastropub style snack options included roasted beef marrow bones, which were a bit too salty for my taste (and I love salt so that's saying a lot) and simple market fresh radishes served with Vermont butter and sea salt.

Cold starters include a variety of salads (spinach, tomato and mozzarella, etc.), oysters on the half shell, beef tartare with quail egg, and crab salad while hot starters include the aforementioned gumbo, soup, Emeril's pizza, baby back ribs, and braised beef cheeks with wild mushrooms and fava beans (insert Silence of the Lambs joke here).

Beef, poultry, seafood, and pasta make up the bulk of the entree options including a stunning Colorado filet, perfectly prepared and juicy beyond all reasonable expectations, and a divine Hawaiian Snapper, lightly steamed and dressed, served with crunch bok choy. The latter was so simple in preparation and presentation that the silky blend of big flavors was surprising, in a really good way.

Other choices include a variety of steaks; pastas including lobster spaghetti and fresh fettuccini with clams, mussels, shrimp, and sausage; and more seafood including salmon, pepper crusted bass, sea scallps, and Great Lakes whitefish.

Most are served ala carte so don't miss the side dishes, which range from lobster mac and cheese to heirloom carrots in Vermont butter.

Emeril's famous banana cream pie and traditional bananas foster are on the dessert menu, of course, but if you only have room for one do not miss the malassadas, which are basically like cinnamon sugar coated donut holes stuffed with white chocolate and dipped in a vanilla bean sauce. Out of this world.

Prices fall squarely in the "not bad" category, with most snacks and starters in the $7-$15 range and most entrees under $40. You could easily do a full dinner here for about $75 per person inclusive, although that could go higher if you order five or six plates of the bacon, which I certainly couldn't blame you for.

Service was fantastic and attentive throughout the meal.

I'm thrilled to have Table 10 back in its place on Vegas4Visitors as one of my favorite restaurants in Las Vegas.

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